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That Yarn

The Hidden Stage Before Softness

When you first touch an industrial cone yarn, it may not feel as soft or airy as a handknitting skein. That’s intentional. Industrial yarns are wound tightly for efficiency, often carrying a small amount of spinning oil or finishing agent to help them run smoothly through factory machines.
Before these yarns are turned into finished garments, clothing manufacturers will usually rewind the cones through a machine — a process called rewinding — to check for broken ends and ensure even tension. Brands like UPW, a well-known Hong Kong spinning house, follow this exact practice.
That’s why an industrial yarn from UPW or an Italian mill can feel compact or slightly rough at first touch — but once knitted and washed, it transforms completely: the fibers relax, the surface blooms, and the handfeel turns soft, plush, and airy.

UPW 100 Extrafine Merino Wool

From Cone to Softness: How It Works

Industrial yarns are produced in a state ready for manufacturing, not for immediate hand use. The softening and blooming happen after the garment is completed and washed — a stage called finishing.”
In contrast, handknitting skeins are pre-washed, fluffed, and reconditioned before sale, so they feel soft right from the start.

That’s why for handknitters using cone yarns, it’s often recommended to:

  • Rewind the cone into balls or cakes before knitting, to release tension and allow air in.
  • Knit slightly looser than usual, especially for brushed or hairy yarns, to let the fabric bloom beautifully after washing.
  • Always swatch and wash before starting a large project — the post-wash texture might surprise you (in a good way).

The Beauty of Transformation

One of the quiet joys of working with industrial yarns lies in this transformation — from something compact and raw to something living and soft. It’s a material that asks for patience and understanding, rewarding you with fabric full of depth and natural loft.
At That Yarn, we curate industrial cone yarns for makers who love that process — who see beauty not only in what’s immediate, but in what emerges after.

🌿 Key Takeaways

  • Industrial yarns are factory-ready, tightly wound, and may contain finishing oil.
  • The softening and blooming happen after washing the finished piece.
  • Always rewind and test-wash before large projects.
  • Yarns like UPW are famous examples — rough before wash, luxurious after.
  • Knit looser to allow the yarn to bloom freely after finishing.

Note: To avoid felting and shrinkage, wool yarn should not be washed in hot water. For best results, keep the wash water below about 86°F (30°C) and handle gently throughout the process.

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